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                CAR HELP SITES                             ANNOYING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT           

When your auto's "check engine light" comes on you can pound on the dashboard all you want hollering "Why Always Me". Is it the car or is it you? Read on.
     If the "Check Engine" or "Service Engine Soon" light on your auto comes on it does not mean you have to panic. Take stock of the events that were happening when it came on, if possible. For example, does the engine run rough and misfire, is the speedometer not working, do you smell a rotten egg odor, is there a loss of power or maybe you just got gas a few days ago. These are some of the things that will trigger this light.
If the engine runs rough and misfires you should go to the auto dealer for your brand of vehicle as soon as possible. This problem may be caused by a faulty spark plug, wire, or coil. You should not drive for any extensive time with these symptoms because the catalytic converters may become damaged. If the speedometer does not work it may just be a speed sensor problem which may also affect the shift pattern of the transmission. This should also be checked as soon as possible. A rotten egg odor or any strange exhaust odors are most likely emission related problems such as a rich or lean running condition possibly triggered by a bad O2 sensor or something causing the O2 sensor to react trying to compensate for a problem. This should also be checked fairly soon. The most common problem for a "check engine" light is a missing or loose gas cap. This will not cause any driveability problems.
If your auto develops a "check engine" light shortly after getting gas check and see if the cap is tight and that the retaining strap is not wedged underneath it. When refueling your auto makes sure you hear several clicks when the attendant or you put the cap back on. Do not leave the engine running or have the ignition key in the on position when refueling. This too will cause the light to come on. If your cap was loose just tighten it and within a few drive cycles the computer should be happy and turn the light off. If not a trip to your repair shop is in order to scan the computer for fault codes. Most owners' manuals will show the extent of warranty for these emission control problems. You may be pleasantly surprised at the coverage.
Don't panic, just use common sense to have these problems corrected. Rarely does an auto have to be towed to the shop for this light.
                             

     OBD-II (On board diagnostics) is a system used in automobiles to monitor various components of the vehicle, detect malfunctions, and store the information in the vehicle’s computer to be recovered at a later time by using a scanner. When the computer finds a fault it will illuminate the “check engine light”. The “II” in OBD-II denotes the second and most current version of this technology and has been in use since 1995.

     At first there were few standards and each manufacturer had their own systems and signals. In 1988, the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) set a standard connector plug and set of diagnostic test signals. The EPA adapted most of their standards from the SAE on-board diagnostic programs and recommendations. OBD-II is an expanded set of standards and practices developed by SAE and adopted by the EPA and CARB (California Air Resources Board) for implementation by January 1, 1996.
     
Here is a breakdown of what each digit of the code means:

       Example code     P 0 1 0 1

     1st digit
     P = powertrain
     B = Body
     C = Chassis

     2nd digit
    
0 = Standard
     1 = Manufacturer specific

     3rd digit
    
1 = Emission management
     2 = Injector circuit
     3 = Ignition
     4 = Auxiliary emission
     5 = Vehicle speed & idle control
     6 = Computer & output circuit
     7 = Transmission

     Since this website is designed to help the average “do it yourself” person in trying to diagnose and/or repair their 
own vehicle I will address only the most common and easily repairable trouble codes. I mainly want to avoid total
confusion and not clutter this site with endless problems and solutions that can only be repaired by a professional.
You will however need to use an OBD-II scanner. For a list of most OBD-II codes scroll to the bottom of this page.
There are more codes than most people realize.

P0100  Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
P0101  Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0102  Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0103  Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input
P0104  Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Intermittent

             Look for poor electrical connections at the MASS air flow sensor and the TPS sensor. Loose, corroded, rusted, ground connections at the engine and body. . Loose air tubes, broken vacuum hoses, vacuum leak at intake gaskets, clogged air filter and anything related to air intake.


P0109  Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction
P0111
 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0112  Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0113  Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0114  Intake Air Temperature Circuit Intermittent

             Look for poor connection at IAT sensor. Usually found on air filter box or air tubes to the engine. These sensors fail more often than others.


P0115  Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction
P0116  Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0117  Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0118  Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
P0119  Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Intermittent

                  This sensor can be anywhere on the engine and is subject to easy failure and electrical connector corrosion. Check to see if radiator is full (check cold only) and no coolant leaks.


P0130  through P0167  are all 02 sensor related. Common problems are bad connections, wires burnt by exhaust pipes, faulty sensors, and in some cases blown fuses.


P0170  Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1)
P0171  System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0172  System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0173  Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 2)
P0174  System too Lean (Bank 2)
P0175  System too Rich (Bank 2)

                   Check for vacuum leaks, low or high fuel pressure, dirty fuel, clogged fuel filter, clogged air filter, worn spark plugs, bad pcv valve, and any general maintenance items.


P0200  Injector Circuit Malfunction
P0201  Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 1
P0202  Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 2
P0203  Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 3
P0204  Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 4
P0205  Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 5
P0206  Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 6

            Check for bad electrical connections, bad grounds, clogged injectors, and possibly a bad computer.


P0300  Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301  Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302  Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303  Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0304  Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0305  Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0306  Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected

                   With these codes the odds are your engine is miss-firing and running rough. Check for poor connections at the coils, bad coil/coils, bad ignition wires, bad spark plugs, low compression in the effected cylinder, injector problems,  timing belt off a few teeth, bad gas, clogged exhaust or catalytic converter, bad computer.  Usually these codes are just a bad spark plug or ign wire but it can get very complicated.


     

P0440  Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction
P0441  Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0442  Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak)
P0443  Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Malfunction
P0444  Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open
P0445  Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted
P0446  Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction
P0447  Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open
P0448 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Shorted
P0449  Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P0450  Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Malfunction
P0451  Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0452  Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input
P0453  Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input
P0454  Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Intermittent
P0455  Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)

                   These are the most common reasons for the check engine light to be on. Check that the gas cap is on tight (several clicks) and that the retaining strap is not jammed under it. Other problems can be a bad gas cap, split hose in the evap system, clogged canister, clogged or jammed canister close/vent valve, purge solenoid not working properly or vacuum leak going to it, electrical connectors or bad grounds, or a bad computer. This is another one of those problems that can be easy to repair or it can turn into a nightmare.


         

     If you go to this link you will find most other "P" codes but for the sake of the average person trying to repair their own vehicle I think I have covered the basics.  There is much help to be gotten either from books or searching online but the person doing their own repairs should have above average expertise to avoid causing unnecessary damage to their vehicle.


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